This year’s garden planning will be a whole new world for me. Well, maybe not a whole new world, but definitely a new property and a new micro-climate!

Last year, my family moved from a house in Ponderosa Trails to a sprawling property in Doney Park.

Moving to a new home is always an adventure, but when that move includes six acres of land, the possibilities for gardening and landscaping expand exponentially! Our new home is so different from our last, and I’m absolutely loving planning this season’s garden. 

(By the way, if you are getting ready to plan YOUR garden, we have an upcoming class that can help. Our Root Camp Gardening 101 session on crop and garden planning will be on March 29 at 10 pm and you can sign up for it – and many other Root Camp classes – here.)

We have plenty of beautiful Ponderosa Pine trees, just like at the old house, but now we also have Pinon, native Juniper, and open grassy areas that give the land a whole new feel. So far, we’ve focused on landscaping close to the house, adding paver patio sections, a covered outdoor patio space, and even a built-in BBQ area.

Of course we made sure that we had a drip irrigation system set up (it really is the best way to water your plants) and my husband, Dan, and I took on the re-landscaping of the front entryway. We added boulders, a dry creek, and some plants, incorporating many of the pots I brought from our old home for perennial and annual color. We even brought our beloved bubbling boulder and set it up again – a little touch of familiarity in this new space.

Of course, not everything from our previous home can be recreated here. Our old water feature, for example, just wouldn’t survive with the amount of wildlife that visits our property, particularly the elk, who would destroy it in no time. Luckily, we have a wonderful view of the Rio de Flag streaming by, which gives us the beauty of a water feature without the maintenance.

And with so much land, we can’t possibly landscape everything, so for now, we’re focusing on the areas around the house. Future plans include adding a small barn for some mini-donkeys and continued landscaping improvements. The outer property will remain in its natural state for now – we love the native look and will maintain it as best we can.

One of the biggest adjustments has been adapting to the new micro-climate. It’s incredibly windy here! Because of that, I made sure to install a drip irrigation system before planting anything. Watering is key, and I wanted to make sure new plants had a fighting chance! The plant palette has shifted as well – I need to find elk-resistant varieties and plants that can withstand the strong winds. Recently, I planted some Lavender and Catmint along a rock wall near our driveway. Not only do I think it will look beautiful, but I’m also hoping it will help keep wildlife at bay. Time will tell!

Another important factor we’ve had to consider is fire safety. The risk of wildfire is very real, and I’m taking it seriously. Before we even moved in, we had Mick’s Tree Service clear dead trees, limb up branches, and remove anything too close to the house. (Mick is also leading one of our Root Camp classes; he’ll be teaching folks how to care for their Ponderosa Pines on May 3.)

I also reached out to the Flagstaff Fire Department, which offers a home assessment service for wildfire preparedness. Mark Adams came out to the property, provided fantastic advice, and sent me a ‘Wildfire Action Plan.’ It was eye-opening! I now have a clear vision of how to landscape moving forward with fire safety in mind, and it was an invaluable learning experience for both myself and my team.

This new home has been such an exciting project, and I can’t wait to see how the landscape evolves over time. With a mix of practical planning, trial and error, and a whole lot of enthusiasm, I know our home will become something truly special!

Happy Gardening,
Misti

As spring approaches, gardeners are looking for the best ways to establish healthy plants in their landscapes. One of the most cost-effective and efficient methods is planting bare root stock. 

Bare root plants offer several advantages over their potted counterparts:

Optimal Growth – Bare root plants have a highly extensive root system because they are grown in the ground from the very start (as opposed to being cultivated in a pot prior to planting). That means their roots have never been restricted by a container, leading to optimal growth!

Better Value – Without the costs of containers, bare root plants are more affordable, making it easier to establish a thriving garden without breaking the bank. 

Cold Hardy – Since bare root plants are dormant when shipped and sold, they can withstand freezing temperatures. This means you can plant in early spring without worrying about frost damage.

BEST TIME TO PLANT

To ensure success, plant bare root stock while the plants are still dormant. However, if they have begun to leaf out, they can still be planted successfully. Our bare root stock at Warner’s Nursery will arrive in mid-March, and planting can continue through May.

This season, we’re offering a variety of small fruits and vegetables, including:

• Boyne, Latham, Amity, and Royalty Purple Raspberries
• Black Satin Blackberries
• Canadice Red Seedless and Himrod White Seedless Grapes
• Chandler Blueberries
• Horseradish
• Mary Washington Asparagus and Sweet Purple Asparagus
• Nugget Hops
• Crimson Red Rhubarb

Additionally, we will have potatoes, garlic, and onion bulbs available around the same time.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Through trial and error, we’ve found that bare root trees do not transplant well in the greater Flagstaff area due to the unpredictable weather and soil temperature. For this reason, we focus on small fruit plants, which have proven to thrive in our climate. 

Follow these steps for the best results:

Choose a Sunny Location – Your plants will need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to produce fruit.

Soak the Roots – Place the roots in a container of lukewarm water mixed with 3 tablespoons of root stimulator per gallon. Let them soak overnight before planting.

Dig the Right Hole – Dig a hole slightly deeper than the plant’s roots and check for proper spacing requirements.

Build a Soil Mound – Inside the hole, create a small mound of soil. Place the plant’s crown on top of the mound, fan the roots around it, and lightly pat soil over the roots to cover them.

Fill and Mulch – Fill in the hole with your amended soil. Mulch helps retain moisture and keeps the soil warm for optimal root establishment.

Water Regularly – Keep the soil moist but not soggy. For the first 4-6 weeks, water once a week with a root stimulator solution to help plants establish.

By following these guidelines, your bare root plants will have the best chance to flourish in your garden. Visit Warner’s Nursery this spring to pick up your bare root stock and get expert advice on making your garden a success!

Happy gardening,
Misti

It’s a question I get asked all the time at the nursery: Do you need to water your garden in winter?

Yes, you do.

While your garden has gone dormant, your plants still need water to fuel basic metabolic functions.

And while it might seem silly to mention this during the week when Flagstaff finally got some snow, it’s meant to be a reminder to keep caring for your trees and plants this winter after a snowstorm. As a rule of thumb, about 10 inches of snow equals about 1 inch of water. In a dry winter like we’ve been having, winter watering is even more crucial for your garden.

HOW OFTEN (AND HOW MUCH) DO I NEED TO WATER?

You should plan on watering once or twice a month during the winter when there isn’t snow cover and temperatures are above 40 degrees. Because that watering schedule is so infrequent, you might want to put it in your day planner. And, of course, you’ll be watering by hand since you should have winterized any drip irrigation system you have.

Another question we often get is how much water is enough during the winter. It depends on the size of the tree, shrub or perennial plant and whether it is new or well-established.

As a general rule, you’ll need about 10 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree. For example, a two-inch diameter tree needs 20 gallons per watering. The trick is to water slowly; you can’t just dump 10 or 20 gallons of water all at once, as it will run off instead of soaking down to the roots.

Newly planted shrubs require about twice as much water as an established shrub needs. You should be looking at 5 gallons each time you water a new shrub and 2.5 gallons for shrubs planted at least a year ago. Make sure they are surrounded by mulch to help them retain the water.

Perennials vary, but know that those planted late in fall did not have as much time to establish their roots as the ones you put into the ground this last spring. Winter watering is highly advisable for late-planted perennials and ones located in windy or southwest exposures.

WHAT ABOUT FREEZES?

It’s a good idea to make sure that temperatures are going to hit about 40 degrees on the days you are watering, and you’ll want to water by midday to make sure it’s been absorbed before any nighttime freezes.

You’ll also want to try to water when it isn’t windy out. A drying wind could wind up carrying off the moisture you are trying to get to the roots of your plants.

By watering your garden in winter, you are increasing the chances that your garden, trees, shrubs and perennials will be lovely and lush next spring.

Happy gardening (and watering!)
Misti