Forget your fertilizer – these plants feed themselves.

Dionaea muscipula – or the Venus Flytrap – is infamous for its carnivorous ways. Its modified leaves are two lobes attached by a hinge, forming a trap. Nectar within the trap lures small insects and if those insects touch a sophisticated series of small hairs inside the leaf called trichomes, the leaves with close and the plant will eat the insect.

Venus flytraps still use photosynthesis to get most of their energy – you should probably think of the insects as a nutrient-rich supplement in their diets. But it means that you shouldn’t use fertilizer with flytraps – it’s likely to burn the plant instead of nourishing it.

Venus flytraps are also famous for being “difficult,” but truthfully, it’s just that they have some specific requirements. Meet those, and your flytrap should thrive.

Light: Unlike most houseplants, Venus flytraps thrive in bright direct sunlight. They need that extra light to power up their photosynthesis, since they do not pull nutrients from the soil.

Water: This is where the “difficult” reputation comes from. Much like a wealthy patron in a fancy restaurant, Venus doesn’t do tap. Rainwater is acceptable and if push comes to shove, they’ll drink distilled water. They’ve got a good reason not to drink tap water, however – the minerals and salts in typical tap water are fatal to them. So don’t judge.

Fertilizer: Don’t do it. Venus gets her nutrients from photosynthesis and those delicious bug snacks. The chemicals in fertilizer – much like the ones in tap water – will damage these sensitive plants.

Soil: Peat moss and perlite are the way to go. Potting mix will not work.

Imagine stepping into your kitchen and plucking a fresh lemon right off your own tree — no backyard required. Indoor citrus trees are one of the most rewarding houseplants you can grow, bringing fragrant blooms, glossy foliage, and even harvestable fruit to any sunny corner of your home. The secret? A little know-how on light, water, and a few indoor-specific tricks.

Light: Your indoor citrus tree needs all the light you can give it and the amount of light will make the difference between your plant thriving or just surviving. A south-facing window with about 8 hours of bright light would be perfect. During the winter, an LED grow light can help.

Humidity: Indoor heating dries out citrus trees, which they don’t like, so try using a small humidifier or pebble tray.

Water: Overwatering is the most common problem for indoor citrus plant owners. Use the soak-and-dry method to prevent overwatering; i.e., a deep watering followed by allowing the soil to dry out before watering again. When the first two inches or so are dry, it’s time to water again.

Soil: Citrus trees need excellent drainage and air circulation. A dedicated citrus potting mix will work, or amend standard potting soil with perlite or a little coarse sand.

Aloe aristata Zambezi, also known as the “torch plant,” is a compact, hardy succulent featuring dark green, toothed, fleshy foliage that’s dotted with white bumps and forms in tight rosettes. The “torch” nickname comes from the striking tubular orange-red flowers that can bloom on mature plants during the summer.

This plant enjoys warm, dry, sunny conditions and – like most succulents – is relatively easy to care for.

Light: Bright and indirect. If you want dark green, healthy foliage, a window with plenty of filtered morning light is just perfect.

Humidity: Dry please. This is not a plant that wants to hang out in your steamy bathroom or with your tropical plants.

Water: Use the soak-and-dry method to prevent overwatering; i.e., a deep watering followed by allowing the soil to dry out fully before watering again.

Soil: Lace aloe prefers a well-drained potting mix. If you use a standard potting soil, mix in some course sand and perlite.

Meet our little fashionista plant — a likely mutation of the Philodendron ‘Rojo Congo’ that’s as stylish as it is easy to care for. With dramatic pinstriped leaves and a high-end name to match, this is a “Birkin” that won’t require a waitlist or a second mortgage.

This plant is relatively new, and its origins are delightfully murky. Most horticulturists agree that it descended from the ‘Rojo Congo,’ mutating so that its leaves developed cream and yellow pinstripes in place of red highlights. But the Rojo Congo has its own complicated backstory — created in Florida in 1996 from a Philodendron tatei and a Philodendron ‘Imperial Red.’ And if you’re still following this increasingly twisty family history, the ‘Imperial Red’ itself was patented in Belgium in 1982 after a greenish-maroon spontaneous mutation — with unknown parents — was discovered in a Florida nursery. Mysterious origins seem to run in the family.

Whatever its lineage, the ‘Birkin’ is a relatively easygoing houseplant, as long as you know what it likes — and this one has opinions.

Light: Bright and indirect. Too much direct sun will burn those gorgeous leaves and fade the cream and yellow pinstripes you’re paying for (so to speak).

Humidity: High, please. Set the plant on a tray of wet pebbles or mist it periodically. Keep those variegated leaves clean with a damp cloth — it helps with photosynthesis and keeps your Birkin looking runway-ready.

Water: Let the top couple of inches of soil dry out before watering again.

Soil: Like most aroids, Birkins appreciate an airy mix that retains some moisture but drains well — soggy roots are very much not on trend.

If you’ve ever wished your succulent collection had a little more drama, the Solar Flare Aloe is ready to deliver. This compact variety — typically an Aloe humilis hybrid — earns its name with rosettes that seem lit from within: a creamy-yellow to white center that melts into vivid green tips, all lined with soft, gentle spines.

What makes it truly special is what happens under stress. Give this plant a generous dose of bright, direct sunlight and watch the leaf margins flush with hot reds and oranges — a phenomenon called “stressing.” The more sun, the fierier the display. It’s one of the few plants that actually looks better the harder you push it.

Best of all, Solar Flare is deeply easygoing. It stays small enough for a windowsill or desk, stores water in its thick leaves, and asks very little in return.

Light: Bright indirect light is best.

Water: Let the soil dry out completely between waterings.

Soil: A good, fast-draining soil is best, such as one for cactus or succulents.

Fertilizer: Diluted succulent feed during the spring and summer only.

You’ve got to love this leaf. The golden hue of neon philodendron’s heart-shaped foliage makes it a stand out addition to your home’s décor. Additionally, those bright leaves mean that your Neon will tolerate a variety of light levels with minimum fuss.

Here are some guidelines when cultivating your Neon Philodendron.

Light: While her golden-lime leaves tolerate lower light than other philodendrons, brighter light will reward you will more baby leaves during the growing season, which are even more beautiful (if you can imagine that) with a blush/golden color. No direct sunlight, however, or those leaves will burn.

Water: Neon likes deep drinks of water, so drench the soil and then let it dry out. When the top two or three inches of soil dry out, give Neon another good soak – although you can let your plant dry out almost completely between waterings during the winter.

Soil: A good, fast-draining soil is best. You don’t want your plant sitting in water.

Humidity: Another area where this plant is easy-peasy is its humidity requirements. However, Neon is a plant native to tropical Brazil, so it does slightly better with more humidity and will probably give you larger leaves. Consider periodic misting, which will also help you clean off any dust on your plant.

Fertilizer: You can feed your Neon while it’s growing, but scale back during the winter.

Is it piece of architectural art or a plant? Or maybe it’s both!

The African Milk Tree is a fast-growing (sometimes up to a foot a year!) indoor plant that really doesn’t ask for much. A bright corner, a little bit of water and off it goes.

For that you get a striking plant with bold, rigid, candelabra-like stems topped with delicate tear shaped leaves. One word of caution, however; the milk sap that emit from this plant is highly irritating to the skin, so please be sure to wear gloves when handling this plant.

Here’s how to take care of this unique succulent:

Light – The African milk tree likes bright, indirect sunlight. A southern-facing window works well.

Soil – This succulent isn’t fussy about its soil, but good drainage is a must.

Water – The African milk tree doesn’t need much water. It’s drought-tolerant, but you should increase the amount of water during the summer when the plant is actively growing. In winter, only provide water to the top inch of soil when it feels dry.

Fertilizer – In the spring and summer, treat your African milk tree to a monthly feeding of half-strength diluted water-soluble fertilizer. Do not feed it during its dormancy period in the fall and winter.

Tillandsia are plants that – believe it or not – live on air. Appropriately enough, they are nicknamed “air plants.” They are a great example of evolutionary adaption – they can grow on telephone poles and rocks and other places without soil. Their photosynthesis process allows them to get most of their nutrients from the air around them.

This relatively low-maintenance plant needs a good soaking when you first get it. Once it’s dry, you can place it in its new home, preferably with some bright, indirect light (or even artificial light). Do not plant it in soil and make sure there’s plenty of air circulation.

Depending on the size and type of air plant you get, maintenance involves periodic misting or soaking – more in the summer when they are likely to dry out and less often in the winter.

A couple of tips – when you soak your air plant, make sure it’s completely dry before putting it back into its home so it doesn’t develop mold. If the tips of the leaves get dried out, that’s a sign that your air plant might be thirsty or that it is getting too much direct light. You can carefully cut off these tips with sharp scissors.

A close relation to the Christmas Cactus, the Spring Cactus (also known as the Easter Cactus) is a succulent that can bloom well into May.

But don’t think of it as a seasonal plant that’s only for spring. After it finishes blooming, this cactus makes a lovely houseplant and, with a little work, you can coax it to bloom again in the future.

Caring for your Spring Cactus
These plants prefer bright, indirect light. Use a cactus mix soil to make sure they get the drainage they need. We can’t stress enough how important this is, because these plants can get root rot, so make sure you do not let it sit in water.

Spring cactus, unlike regular cacti, like cool temperatures. Fertilize monthly after the bloom period with food with a low nitrogen count. 

Following this care plan, you’ll have a nice, healthy green cactus for the bulk of the year. But if you want to have blooms the following spring, you need to be a little mean to your plant.

First, you need to stop feeding it. Then you need to put it in the dark for about 12 to 14 hours a day. Then you need to keep them cold (the best budding will happen when temperatures are about 50 degrees).

At the end of the year, you can move the plant to somewhere warmer, say about 65 degrees, and your plant will start flowering again in February.