Houseplant of the Week: Monstera Deliciosa

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monstera deliciosa plant

Like many lovely plants, Monstera Deliciosa is stuck with a not-so-appealing name, but this monster is actually very popular for its large, dramatic, perforated leaves. In fact, you can see it often in magazine spreads as a “statement” plant, dominating the décor.

Which leads to our first piece of advice about this houseplant – it needs a lot of room. Cramped spaces, tight corners, and windowsills need not apply.

As far as general care, your monstera likes a well-lit indoor spot and weekly waterings. You’ll want to keep those gorgeous “Swiss cheese” leaves clean with a damp cloth. In addition to removing dust, it actually allows the plant to “breathe” better and absorb moisture, which it likes as a tropical plant.

Monsteras outgrow their pots in about two years. You might also want to consider lending your monstera a little support (like a trellis or support sticks) to help it stay upright.

Houseplant of the Week: Ivy

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Ivy houseplant positioned on a wooden shelf

The image that probably pops into most people’s heads when you mention Ivy is the vine you often see clinging to the sides of houses. In fact, as a vine, it’s often considered invasive because of its aggressive growth.

But Ivy as a houseplant makes a lovely addition to a home, where its leaves will cascade down from pots and hanging baskets.

Caring for Your Ivy Plant

The most important thing your ivy plant needs is the right amount of light. The mostly green varieties like a bright light, but if you have a variegated version with white on the leaves, you might want to bring that down to medium light.

While Ivy like humidity and to be watered regularly (think of English Ivy in the rainy British Isles), it doesn’t like to be soaking in water, which can make the roots rot.

Remember to feed your plant, too. Fertilize your ivy with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer about once a month except in winter, when the plant is dormant.

Finally, remember this is a plant from northern Europe, so it tends to like its temperatures on the cool side.

Planting Spring Blooming Bulbs

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In the early spring, you’ll see beautiful displays of tulips, daffodils, irises and crocus dotting the landscapes around town. These bulb-based plants are the promise of the beautiful growing season to come, the first flowers after the chill and gray of winter.

But to enjoy this future beauty, you’ve got to plant them now.

Spring bulbs are a fantastic option for Flagstaff gardeners, because they need the cold weather of winter to bloom. And they are pretty good sports about the occasional frost (or even late season snow) after they bloom.

And when it comes to bang-for-your-buck, you cannot beat bulbs. For a very modest investment, you’ll get a plant that gets bigger and produces more blooms in the years to come.

Here in Flagstaff, late September to late October is the perfect time to plant spring bulbs for optimum spring color. Here’s our guide to giving your spring bulbs a boost now to ensure gorgeous blooms next year.

Planting
Spring blooming bulbs need well-drained soil and at least partial sun to bloom their best. If you live in an area of Flagstaff where clay is prevalent, amend your soil to a depth of about 12 inches to create a loose, well-drained soil texture. When planting, place the bulb facing upward in a hole about twice as deep as the bulb is tall, measured from the bottom on the bulb. (The top of the bulb is the pointed side, called the nose, and the flat side is the bottom, referred to as the root plate.)

Fertilize
Your spring blooming bulbs will need to be fertilized when planted with bone meal or phosphate, both of which are high in phosphorous. Either one can be added to the bottom of the hole and mixed with a small scoop of mulch before placing the bulb and filling up the hole. (Pro tip: Top dressing with fertilizer after planting will not have the same positive effects, however you might want to sprinkle a bit on top to ward off pesky animals looking to make a meal out of your freshly planted bulbs.)

Watering
Give your newly planted bulbs a good soaking right after planting. If we receive at least two inches of snow every ten days, your bulbs won’t need additional watering. When the shoots start to appear in spring, start watering bulbs about once a week with a nice deep soaking, but take care not to overwater as this can cause bulb rot.

Spring Fertilizing
As soon as you see growth on your bulbs in the spring, fertilize the area monthly until the bulbs flower. After the bulbs begin to flower, just stop and enjoy the show.

Maintenance
After your bulbs’ flowers fade, you can be left with the leaves which many consider messy and unattractive. Resist the temptation to cut them off. They are necessary for the plant to photosynthesize and produce the stored energy needed for the following year.

One easy solution to hiding the mess is to layer planting beds so that the remaining bulb foliage is hidden by emerging spring perennials. Another solution is to trim back the flower stems and leave the foliage as a green accent. Once that foliage has turned yellow or brown and died back, it can be removed.

Our days are still warm and it is still a great time to be outside. Enjoy the weather and add a beautiful spring accent to your garden by planting bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, crocus and irises now. You will be glad you did next spring!

If you have any questions about bulbs – or any other gardening issues – please feel free to ask our experts here at Warner’s Nursery. We are happy to help.

Happy Gardening,
Misti Warner-Andersen

Houseplant of the Week: Fiddle Leaf Fig

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The glamour puss of the ficus world is the fiddle leaf fig or ficus lyrata. Tall and stately, it grows in a column and tends to go up, instead of out, so it works well as a decorative tree that has the drama of big leaves without taking over the whole room. Those leaves are violin or lyre shaped, thus the name.

Fiddle leaf figs tend to get a bad rap as being, well, fiddly, but they honestly are not that demanding.

Probably their biggest concern is getting enough bright (but filtered) light and keeping warm (remember this is a tropical plant – putting one near the fan or the a/c is just torture).

Like most plants, the fiddle leaf fig likes its soil moist but not sopping wet, which will lead to droopy leaves and root rot. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the top 2 – 3 inches of soil are dry and then provide a thorough watering. Here’s a pro tip: water with room temperature water when possible. That will prevent it from getting a chill and going into shock.

What they do like is a little moisture in the air, which can be hard to achieve in dry Arizona, so try misting to make the leaves of your fiddle leaf fig happy.

Houseplant of the Week: Ficus Benjamina

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Another member of the fig tree family, the ficus benjamina is also known as the weeping fig or ficus benjy.

Like other ficuses, it features nice thick foliage with dark rich leaves. It needs a bright room and steadily moist soil.

So why does it weep? Well, it doesn’t like being distressed and when it is, it responds by dropping its leaves. But if you put it in a nice bright room and leave it there (it doesn’t like moving around) and don’t overwater it, it should stay calm and beautiful.

You’ll often see a household Benjy grown to almost six feet, although in nature, these trees can soar to 10 times that height. You’ll also sometimes see braided trunks with this plant to augment their ornamental beauty.

Caring for your Benjy

  1. Light: Place it in a room with bright, but indirect sunlight. Again, once you find a good spot, keep the plant there, as it has a high intolerance for being moved.
  2. Water: Steadily moist soil is great, particularly during growing season, but don’t let the plant sit in water as this will cause root rot. In the fall and winter, you can scale back and let the plant get drier.
  3. Food: This is a plant that likes its meals. To keep up with its heavy feeding schedule, you might want to use slow release pellets at the beginning of the growing season in spring. After that fertilize monthly during the spring and summer and then scale back to once every other month during the fall and winter.
  4. Pruning: This plant is a fast grower and should be pruned, but wait until the growing season is over. 

Houseplant of the Week: Alocasias

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Alocasias are considered some of the most striking houseplants available because of their eye-catching foliage. Native to the subtropics, they have close to 80 varieties with a wide range of looks. 

Some are known for their gigantic leaves like the “elephant ear” varieties. Others feature highly visible veins, typically in a contrasting colors.

Alocasias need bright, indirect light. In nature, these plants thrive beneath tree canopies and direct sun will lead to the leaves getting burned. They are also used to high humidity, so don’t place them in a place where they will dry out easily, such as an air conditioner vent or a heater.

Allow the top 2 to 3 inches of the plant to dry between watering to ensure that the plant isn’t sitting in soil that is too wet.

Late Summer Container Gardening

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Late summer and early fall can be a glorious time for your garden – particularly your container gardens.

This is the time of year when perennials are in full growth and you can easily add them as well as small shrubs in your containers to replace spent annual flowers. It’s an easy way to refresh your yard or space as we head into fall.

Here at Warner’s, we are still getting fresh plant material each week, including grasses that can be used as a fun focal point of your containers. Surround them with mums, asters and pansies, which are making a comeback with the cooler weather.

And you aren’t limited to just flowers, grasses and shrubs in your container gardens. Right now is a great time to grow a fall crop of cool season leafy greens, like kale, spinach, arugula and Swiss chard. These are fast growing veggies, so you’ll have plenty of time to harvest them before it gets too cold.

Not that cold is a particular concern for many of these plants, which tend to be frost tolerant.

Here are some basic guidelines for container gardens:

  • Good Drainage – Make sure your container has a hole or holes big enough for excess water to escape. If it’s a pot that you plan to place on a flat surface, you might want to elevate it so the water isn’t blocked.
  • Good soil – In container gardening, you are creating your plants’ environment and the key to that is good, healthy soil and a slow-release fertilizer so your plants don’t starve. We have an excellent array of soil and fertilizers at Warner’s and we’ll be happy to discuss what will work best for your container garden.
  • Careful transplanting – When removing your plants from the nursery containers, please be gentle. If it’s in one of our multi-packs, squeeze the flexible plastic to ease the plant out. If in a nursery pot, try pushing it out from the bottom. Avoid pulling the plant out.
  • Air Pocket Perils – Beware of air pockets. If you have several plants in one container, make sure there’s enough soil between the plants to avoid air pockets. They are killers, causing the plant’s roots to dry out.
  • Don’t Forget to Water – The monsoon rains have been wonderful, but they aren’t enough to keep your container plants fully hydrated.

I hope you enjoy the last few weeks of summer and welcome the fall season with lots of color in your container gardens. If you have any questions about container gardening – or any horticultural topics – please call or stop by. We’d love to chat with you.

Happy Gardening!
Misti

The Joy of Other Gardens

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If you are looking for some vegetable garden inspiration, have I got the event for you!

Flagstaff’s Finest Vegetable Garden Tour will be Saturday, August 13, from 10 am to 4 pm.

This self-guided tour will feature a mix of private and community gardens, including a micro-farm and the lovely public garden at the Olivia White Hospice Home. At each of the eight locations, there will be hosts and volunteers to show you around and answer your questions.

The tour is sponsored by the Coconino County Master Gardener Association (CMGA) and Warner’s Nursery, with proceeds helping to fund CMGA’s education and community improvement projects. (The nonprofit awards up to $5,000 each year in grants).

I love seeing how other people create and maintain their gardens. It inspires me as I think about how I want my veggie patch to look in the future. It’s also very informative, with each garden on the tour illustrating the challenges of our unique environment and how gardeners have overcome those challenges.

You’ll see examples of beautiful xeriscaping and native plant beds with fruit trees and veggie plots incorporated into the landscape. Some of our gardens feature container gardens and raised beds. Innovative rainwater harvesting methods, composting, and “hoop houses” to extend the growing season will also be on display.

You can purchase tickets online for $18.60 anytime before August 12 and a map of the tour will be emailed to you. Or you can stop by Warner’s on the morning of the event and purchase tickets here for $15. We are only selling the tickets that day between 9 am and Noon and purchases have to be by cash or check.

We hope you’ll take advantage of one of the highlights of the growing season here in northern Arizona and be inspired by the amazing gardens to be explored.

Happy Gardening,
Misti Warner-Andersen

Houseplant of the Week: Nepenthes, the ‘Monkey Cup’ plant

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Nepenthes 'Monkey Cup' Plant

Move over, venus flytrap – there’s a new carnivore in town.

Nepenthes, which is often called the monkey cup or tropical pitcher plant, is rather exotic looking. From its tendrils you’ll see globe- or tube-shaped protrusions that act as traps. In the tropics, monkeys are often seen drinking rainwater from these “pitchers” which is how it got its most popular nicknames.

However, if you are smaller than a monkey, you might want to watch out. While insects are the primary diet for Nepenthes, larger versions of the plants in the wild have been known to trap rats, lizards and even the occasional bird. (Yikes – cue the “Little Shop of Horrors” soundtrack.)

Not to worry, however; the hybrids we offer at Warner’s will most likely stick to bugs.

Caring for Your Nephentes

  • Light – These plants love bright (although not direct) sun. A nice windowsill with bright light is perfect for this plant, which needs a hefty dose of light to develop its “pitchers.” Just make sure the plant doesn’t scorch, which will show up as red zones on the plant’s upper most growth.
  • Humidity – Although this plants roots are in the tropics, you don’t have to have a hothouse to grow a Nepenthes. They’ll tolerate lower humidity although they probably won’t develop as many pitchers. A terrarium is a great choice for this plant, however, because of the increased humidity it provides.
  • Soil – Your medium for this plant should be a mix of moss and perlite, not potting soil (the minerals in potting soil will actually damage the plant).
  • Water – Don’t let your Nephentes dry out completely. On the other hand, standing water is a bad idea as it causes root rot. 
  • Temperature – As you would expect with a plant that comes from the tropics, Nephentes doesn’t like the cold. Please keep it away from the air conditioner or drafts.

Houseplant of the Week: Asparagus Fern

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Many common names for houseplants can be misleading; they are often based on what the plant looks like as opposed to what it actually is.

Take, for example, the Asparagus Fern. No, it isn’t a fern, and you aren’t about to harvest some delicious vegetable spears if you cultivate one. (And, in fact, if your Asparagus fern sprouts berries, please note they are not edible.)

Here’s another example where what you see doesn’t quite match reality: those fuzzy, soft-looking fronds? They can hide thorny spurs, so be careful when you tend to your plant.

Caring for Your Asparagus Fern 

Light: Ferns grow in the wild on forest floors where there’s a lot of shade, but this doesn’t mean that your houseplant has to be in a dark corner. It thrives best in bright, indirect light.

Misting: Mist the plant daily, focusing on the arching stems. If the plant appears to be turning brown and droopy, it likely needs more water.

Water: Keep soil moist and water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.