Pruning for Garden Health

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As our gardens start to shape up with new flowers and seedlings, one important step people sometimes skip is pruning their trees and shrubs.

Part of this is a philosophy that says “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.” Why bother to prune if there’s no immediate problem, like your tree is about to head into some powerlines or your shrubs have taken over a walkway. (There are several good reasons, which I share below).

The other problem is that many people don’t feel confident in their pruning techniques. If that’s the case, keep reading for some basics and tips that will help.

First of all, why prune? Most important are those safety reasons – removing dead or cracked branches that are threatening to fall or making sure living ones aren’t growing into areas where you don’t want them. But pruning also helps maintain the health of your tree or shrub and increases the yield of flowers or fruit. Why? Because proper pruning will shape the tree to allow for optimum growth. 

Early spring is the perfect time for pruning because most plants are just starting to wake up and run sap, which means they’ll be photosynthesizing, which will allow them the energy to recover from the pruning cut. For deciduous plants, there’s the added benefit that it’s easier to see what you are doing because the trees are bare. However, if you have a spring blooming tree or shrub, you should wait to prune until after it is done flowering. 

One important rule of all types of pruning is this: never prune more than one third of the plant. Prune more than that and you run the risk of damaging the plant, or at least stunting its growth. 

Types of Pruning Cuts for Deciduous Plants

Because many kinds of pruning cuts are made near a growth bud, you have to know how your plants grow in order to determine where to cut. There are three types: (1) a terminal bud grows at the tip of a shoot; (2) a lateral bud grows alongside the shoot; and (3) a latent bud lies dormant beneath the bark. If a branch breaks or is cut off near it, it may develop into a new shoot.

Once you determine the type, you can choose one of these four pruning cuts to keep it healthy.

  • Thinning – This is when you remove an entire branch or stem, taking it back to its point of origin or to a juncture with another branch. These cuts eliminate competing or old stems, reduce overall size, and open up a plant’s structure.
  • Heading – Heading cuts remove just part of a stem or branch – not the whole thing. Such cuts can be made back to a bud or to a twig and it stimulates the growth of lateral buds just below the cut. 
  • Shearing – Clipping a plant’s outer foliage to create an even surface (like with hedges or a topiary). It’s kind of an indiscriminate form of heading, because it doesn’t involve precise cutting just above a growing point.
  • Pinching – This is the simplest of pruning cuts. Using your thumb and forefinger or a pair of hand shears, you nip off the tips of new growth, removing the terminal bud. This stops the shoot from growing longer and stimulates branching. Pinching is used primarily on annuals and perennials to make them bushy and encourage the production of more flowers.

What to Do with Conifers

Part of the allure of evergreens is that they are usually low-maintenance plants. A little periodic pruning, however, can keep your conifers healthy and looking their best. When thinking about pruning conifers – or any plant for that matter – it’s good to remember the old adage, “measure twice and cut once.” In the case of conifers, it’s “think twice and prune once.” 

Here’s the really important thing to remember: there is no place for “recreational pruning” of conifers because they don’t replace growth like other trees and shrubs; pruning is always done for a particular purpose, like keeping a particular look, removing dead or diseased branches or controlling the size if they are threatening to grow into other plants or buildings.

Have more questions about spring pruning? Visit or give us a call if you need some advice – we are always happy to help.

Happy Gardening!
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Tradescantia

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Tradescantia goes by many names, including wandering jew and the purple inch plant. Whatever you call it, however, it is a beauty that looks great in a hanging planter or spreading along a flat surface.

Part of the spiderwort family and originally from Mexico, Tradescantia is a plant that grows easily – some might argue too easily. In fact, in certain zones, it is grown outside and can be seen as invasive!

But as a indoor plant, it will be a welcome and colorful addition to any room.

Typically, Tradescantia matures into a plant about 6 to 9 inches in height spreading 12 to 24 inches.

Caring for Your Tradescantia

Probably the trickiest part of cultivating your Tradescantia is getting the moisture levels right. These plants like their water, but like most plants will develop root rot if they are soggy. Your best bet is to make sure that it is planted in potting soil that drains well. Mixing a little sand into your potting soil can help. Water them when the soil starts to get dry; don’t let the plant fully dry out.

You’ll also be looking to find the right balance for light. Tradescantia likes bright but indirect light. Too little light and the distinctive variegation on its leaves will start to fade. Too much direct sunlight and those leaves will scorch. However, they can tolerate some direct light, which makes them a great choice for growing in a sunny window.

Propagating Your Inch Plant

Remember how we said this plant was easy to grow? Well, that applies to creating new plants from cuttings. Simply take a one-inch piece of stem containing at least one leaf and set it in fresh potting soil. Water it regularly and you should have a fully rooted new plant in just a few weeks.

Bulbs, Bulbs, Bulbs

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Typically, I write to you about bulbs during the fall to remind you to plant the ones that are coming up right now – things like tulips, crocus, daffodils and irises. It’s always heartbreaking when we get people in the nursery around this time of year looking for tulip bulbs and we have to break it to them that they missed getting them into the ground in time.

But getting your spring-blooming bulbs into the ground in time is only half the story. You also need to know how to maintain these plants once they’ve poked their pretty blossoms out of the soil.

Here are some tips:

  • You need to keep the soil moist but well drained. You don’t want to allow the bulb to dry out during this time as it will affect how long the blooms will last.
  • Once they are done blooming, it’s important NOT to cut back the unsightly foliage, because this is how the bulb stores energy in order to bloom next year. Instead, you can fold the foliage over and secure it with a rubber band to hide it.
  • Another way to make areas with spent bulbs look more attractive is to plant other perennials to hide the foliage. I love using pansies and violas, since they look beautiful paired with bulb flowers and both can take our current cold nights.

It’s also good to remember that spring bulbs aren’t the only ones around. There are summer blooming bulbs, like begonias, caladium, dahlias, gladiola, elephant ears and more. So you can still plant some spectacular looking bulbs this year, but understand the planting process will be a little different than for spring bulbs.

Right now, summer bulbs can be purchased, but other than edibles like onion, scallions and garlic, these summer-blooming bulbs are tropical. Unlike spring bulbs – which not only like, but need cold weather – these summer bulbs can’t take the cold. That means they shouldn’t be planted outside until the threat of frost is over – which, as we know, can be well into spring in Flagstaff.

We suggest planting in containers inside and moving them out towards the end of May. The general rule of thumb is, if it’s time for you tomatoes to go outside, it’s time to plant your summer bulbs.

And, unlike your spring bulbs, chances are you’ll need to plant new bulbs every spring for summer blooms.

Whether you are enjoying your bulbs in the spring or summer, they are a beautiful addition to any garden.

Happy Spring!
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Arrowhead Plants

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A hardy houseplant with uniquely shaped leaves, the Arrowhead plant is actually a vine, although you won’t see that early on since it grows very slowly. It works well as a hanging plant or in a standing pot and is also very easy to maintain.

Not only that, an established and healthy plant is easy to propagate with cuttings.

So what is the Arrowhead (also known as a Nyphthytis) looking for in its home?

  • Let your plant dry out between waterings. 
  • It likes a little humidity, particularly in the winter, so misting the plant daily or placing it on a pebble tray will help it thrive.
  • Make sure its soil drains well (if it’s too wet, it will lead to root rot).
  • Make sure your lighting is right. Arrowheads actually come in different shades and while green leaves will enjoy low or medium light, plants with pink or white leaves want bright, indirect light.
  • In either case do not place directly in the sun, which can bleach out the leaves.

Houseplant of the Week: The Croton

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Variegated leaves in a strong greens, yellows, reds, orange, creams and pinks are the calling card of Codiaeum variegatum or the Croton plant. In more tropical areas, these beauties are grown outdoors, but they are also popular as lovely houseplants.

Here’s the first thing you need to know about these plants: They are finicky about being moved. So if you take home your plant and find that it loses a bunch of its leaves within a few days, don’t panic. It’s not that it’s a bad plant or you somehow “failed” it. Basically, it’s gone into shock. It will recover pretty quickly with some regular plant care – the right amount of light, proper watering and good soil.

Caring for your Croton

So let’s talk about lighting first. In general, Crotons like a sunny location; lack of sufficient light can even cause new leaves to be less colorful! But there’s a wide range of Crotons, so be sure to check the specific lighting needs of the variety you purchase.

Crotons also like their humidity; they are, after all, a tropical plant. A pebble tray or regular misting will keep your plant looking good.

Crotons should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. They like to dry out between waterings, so a soil with good drainage is a must.

The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 degrees.

Saying ‘I Love You’ with Flowering Plants

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Happy Valentine’s Weekend.

For you lovebirds out there, I know this year might present unique challenges in finding a gift for your significant other.

A nice romantic meal at a restaurant is probably out. Cut flowers are lovely but don’t last long. And let’s face it – many of us have already put on some pounds during the pandemic, so chocolates might not be appreciated.

Can I suggest a beautiful flowering plant as an alternate Valentine’s gift this year? It has all the romance of flowers except it lasts longer and will be happily blooming long after you’ve finished off that box of Lindt or Whitman chocolates.

We’ve got a great selection of flowering houseplants at Warner’s right now, ranging from the easy-to-maintain to the exotic. Impress your beloved with one of these:

  • Anthurium – an almost perfect Valentine’s Day plant, with leaves and deep red flowers that are heart-shaped.
  • African Violets – petite and pretty, these cute plants are easy to cultivate in a small space.
  • Flowering Jasmine – while not all jasmine flowers are fragrant, the variety commonly used for growing jasmine indoors has a sweet aroma, particularly at night. 
  • Cyclamen – For centuries, these plants have been associated with matters of the heart. In fact, ancient Greek lore talks about using the plant to make food that would cause a person to fall madly in love. (Do NOT attempt this; the plant is not meant to be eaten and in fact consuming it raw could make you sick).
  • Orchids – Exotic and elegant, these beautiful flowers make a statement. They are also perfect for a loved one who suffers from allergies; orchid pollen is not airborne. Instead it is stored in a waxy substance on the plants, making them essentially hypoallergenic.

If you need help picking out the perfect flowering plant to present to your loved one this weekend, our staff is ready to help with advice and suggestions.

Happy Valentine’s Day!
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Rhaphidophora tetrasperma

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Rhaphidophora tetrasperma

Often called the mini Monstera because of its resemblance to the Monstera deliciosa, the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is having its moment in the sun as the “it” plant trending on social media with its peek-a-boo leaves.

Well, maybe not fully in the sun; just like Monstera and Philodendron, this plant doesn’t like direct sunlight. It flourishes when it has dappled, filtered light. An east-facing room where it can catch the morning rays and be in shade the rest of the day would be perfect. 

Rhaphidophora likes to be moist but not waterlogged, which – as in so many cases of overwatering – will cause root rot. On the other hand, don’t wait so long to water that it dries out. Check that the top part of the plant’s soil has dried out; water it until you see water draining from the bottom and empty its tray to prevent the plant from standing in water.

One special item you might want to get for your Rhaphidophora is a sturdy climbing support as it does like to climb.

Winter is for the Birds

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Winter may be one of the best times for bird-watching. With the foliage down, it is easier to see and enjoy your backyard residents.

While certain species like hummingbirds migrate to warmer climates in winter, there’s still a rich diversity of birds to see year-round.

These birds could use your help to make it through the winter, and here are a few tips that will make their lives a little easier with the cold weather.

Warmth: Birds have a bunch of different strategies to keep warm in winter. Some grow additional feathers. They “fluff” themselves to create air pockets that increase the insulation ability of their down. Some even slow their metabolism to conserve energy, and more social birds like chickadees huddle together in the night.

  • You can help by keeping bird boxes clean and keep trees that have cavities, which are popular nesting spots.

Water: During the winter, fresh water is crucial to a bird’s survival. While birds can eat snow, that costs them precious energy. Plus water is valuable not only for drinking but for preening. Those extra winter feathers won’t help them if they can keep them clean.

  • You can help by keeping at least one birdbath in the garden that is consistently filled with fresh water. A heated birdbath is a plus, but more importantly place your birdbath where the birds will be safe (i.e., not near a place where predators like cats can hide and then pounce).

Food: Birds spend more calories to keep warm in the winter and therefore need more nourishment.

  • You can help by providing a variety of food through your garden vegetation and feeds. Suet, thistle, sunflower seeds, dried berries, fruit and seed assortments that are readily available will benefit a diverse population of birds. Also, if you have a dying tree, think about keeping it (unless it’s a hazard) this winter. These trees are great places for birds to find insects to feast on, and their cavities make great resting places.

We hope you and your birds are enjoying this winter. We’ve got a great selection of bird food, feeders and baths that can help you help the birds this winter.

Happy gardening (and bird-watching),
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Paperwhites

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So let’s change the terminology here, shall we? It’s not forcing a Paperwhite bulb, it’s coaxing it. Specifically encouraging it to bloom out of season.

Most spring flowering bulbs need 12 to 15 weeks at temperatures between 41 and 48 degrees in order to produce a good root system essential to “force” them to flower. But if you are looking to have lovely blooms this winter, we suggest Paperwhites.

Narcissus tazetta – which in addition to Paperwhites also includes the Soleil d’Or and Chinese Sacred Lily  – are among the most popular forcing flowers that do not require the 12-week rooting period. They are easy to start and can give wonderfully scented, white trumpeted flowers until late March.

Paperwhites are most often (and most easily) potted in shallow containers of gravel or decorative stones. Place bulbs on a layer of gravel and carefully fill in enough gravel to hold bulbs but not cover them, or place them onto the stones, pushing them down just far enough so the bulbs are supported in an upright position. Put several of them together, not worrying about crowding. A crowded grouping will be the most attractive.

Add water to the container. It should just reach the base of the bulbs, but not touch the bulbs. If the water covers too much of the bulb, it will rot. Now put them in a cool dark place for one to two weeks. When the roots have begun to take hold, and the plant has sprung from the bulb, take the pot out into a brightly lit room. In about a month, your Paper Whites will be in bloom.

Tip: Plant them in succession so you have pots of Paper Whites blooming all winter! After blooming, cut the flower and stem off. Do not cut back the leaves. Put them in a sunny window and transplant them outdoors when the weather permits. It will take 2 to 3 years before they will bloom again. 

Houseplant of the Week: Peperomia

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Looking for an easy indoor plant that doesn’t take up too much room and comes in an almost endless array of colors and varieties? Then you might want to pick a peck of peperomia.

Two potted peperomia plantsThere’s well over a thousand varieties of these plants, which most commonly come with green, purple, red, silver and variegated leaves. The most popular include the Peperomia Scandens ‘Variegata’ also known as the “cupid peperomia” with its heart-shaped leaves; the P. argyreia, whose silver stripes against dark green leaves make it look like a watermelon skin; and the Peperomia obtusifolia, also known as the “baby rubber plant.”

Peperomia tolerate low light relatively well (although you might want more light for varieties that are more succulent). They can even grow under florescent lights, which makes them popular for offices. Water sparingly; many types of peperomia can hold water in their leaves, so it’s not a death sentence if you go on vacation or forget to water them once in a while.