Variegated leaves in a strong greens, yellows, reds, orange, creams and pinks are the calling card of Codiaeum variegatum or the Croton plant. In more tropical areas, these beauties are grown outdoors, but they are also popular as lovely houseplants.

Here’s the first thing you need to know about these plants: They are finicky about being moved. So if you take home your plant and find that it loses a bunch of its leaves within a few days, don’t panic. It’s not that it’s a bad plant or you somehow “failed” it. Basically, it’s gone into shock. It will recover pretty quickly with some regular plant care – the right amount of light, proper watering and good soil.

Caring for your Croton

So let’s talk about lighting first. In general, Crotons like a sunny location; lack of sufficient light can even cause new leaves to be less colorful! But there’s a wide range of Crotons, so be sure to check the specific lighting needs of the variety you purchase.

Crotons also like their humidity; they are, after all, a tropical plant. A pebble tray or regular misting will keep your plant looking good.

Crotons should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. They like to dry out between waterings, so a soil with good drainage is a must.

The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 degrees.

Often called the mini Monstera because of its resemblance to the Monstera deliciosa, the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is having its moment in the sun as the “it” plant trending on social media with its peek-a-boo leaves.

Well, maybe not fully in the sun; just like Monstera and Philodendron, this plant doesn’t like direct sunlight. It flourishes when it has dappled, filtered light. An east-facing room where it can catch the morning rays and be in shade the rest of the day would be perfect. 

Rhaphidophora likes to be moist but not waterlogged, which – as in so many cases of overwatering – will cause root rot. On the other hand, don’t wait so long to water that it dries out. Check that the top part of the plant’s soil has dried out; water it until you see water draining from the bottom and empty its tray to prevent the plant from standing in water.

One special item you might want to get for your Rhaphidophora is a sturdy climbing support as it does like to climb.

So let’s change the terminology here, shall we? It’s not forcing a Paperwhite bulb, it’s coaxing it. Specifically encouraging it to bloom out of season.

Most spring flowering bulbs need 12 to 15 weeks at temperatures between 41 and 48 degrees in order to produce a good root system essential to “force” them to flower. But if you are looking to have lovely blooms this winter, we suggest Paperwhites.

Narcissus tazetta – which in addition to Paperwhites also includes the Soleil d’Or and Chinese Sacred Lily  – are among the most popular forcing flowers that do not require the 12-week rooting period. They are easy to start and can give wonderfully scented, white trumpeted flowers until late March.

Paperwhites are most often (and most easily) potted in shallow containers of gravel or decorative stones. Place bulbs on a layer of gravel and carefully fill in enough gravel to hold bulbs but not cover them, or place them onto the stones, pushing them down just far enough so the bulbs are supported in an upright position. Put several of them together, not worrying about crowding. A crowded grouping will be the most attractive.

Add water to the container. It should just reach the base of the bulbs, but not touch the bulbs. If the water covers too much of the bulb, it will rot. Now put them in a cool dark place for one to two weeks. When the roots have begun to take hold, and the plant has sprung from the bulb, take the pot out into a brightly lit room. In about a month, your Paper Whites will be in bloom.

Tip: Plant them in succession so you have pots of Paper Whites blooming all winter! After blooming, cut the flower and stem off. Do not cut back the leaves. Put them in a sunny window and transplant them outdoors when the weather permits. It will take 2 to 3 years before they will bloom again. 

Looking for an easy indoor plant that doesn’t take up too much room and comes in an almost endless array of colors and varieties? Then you might want to pick a peck of peperomia.

There’s well over a thousand varieties of these plants, which most commonly come with green, purple, red, silver and variegated leaves. The most popular include the Peperomia Scandens ‘Variegata’ also known as the “cupid peperomia” with its heart-shaped leaves; the P. argyreia, whose silver stripes against dark green leaves make it look like a watermelon skin; and the Peperomia obtusifolia, also known as the “baby rubber plant.”

Peperomia tolerate low light relatively well (although you might want more light for varieties that are more succulent). They can even grow under florescent lights, which makes them popular for offices. Water sparingly; many types of peperomia can hold water in their leaves, so it’s not a death sentence if you go on vacation or forget to water them once in a while.

Waxy and dramatic, the show-stopping heart-shaped flowers of anthurium (also known as laceleaf, flamingo flower or painter’s palette) are a wonderful addition to your home.

These plants are often used as centerpieces on tables or dining rooms. However, your anthurium might do really well in your kitchen or bathroom, as they love humidity.

Anthurium thrive in bright, indirect light. You can have them in low-lit areas and the foliage will do well, but they won’t flower. They are not particularly fussy about feeding (general fertilizer every few months is a good idea), and they like their soil moist but not wet. Only water when the top inch has dried out. Anthuriums also love having peat moss or coco-coir in their pots.

Like many of the plants featured in this column, anthurium is another great air purifier for your home.

What makes Euphorbia milii, the Crown of Thorns, such an easy indoor plant to cultivate? It thrives in the conditions you find in most homes, adapting well to normal room temperatures (although it can withstand temperatures as low as 50 degrees). It doesn’t mind dry indoor conditions and will even forgive you if you miss a watering or two.

The one thing it does insist on is a little sunbathing. Your plant will be super happy in a sunny window where it gets about four hours of bright, indirect sunlight each day.

Caring for Your Crown of Thorns

• Soil –Use a sandy, well-drained soil that is 2/3 cactus or succulent potting soil and 1/3 perlite or coarse sand. The soil should drain quickly to prevent root-rot.
• Water – From late spring to early fall, water your plant well and then allow the top half of the soil to dry out before watering again. Reduce the amount of water when the plant is not producing new leaves and flowers, but never allow the soil to totally dry out. 
• Fertilizer –Feed monthly when it is actively growing with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
• Pests & Diseases – While the plant is pest-resistant, too much moisture can cause mildew or fungus on the plant.
• Repotting – A Crown of Thorns plant needs to be repotted every two to three years.

We’d understand if you think the Dracaena is an intimidating plant.

It’s name comes from the Greek and roughly translates to “Female Dragon,” because of the red gummy resin that can be produced by the stems of the plant resembling, it’s said, dragon’s blood.

Fortunately, the Dracaena doesn’t breathe fire. It’s even pretty easy to maintain.

Dracaenas like filtered light or semi-shady spots. Never place a Dracaena in direct sunlight. It’s ironic, but the dragon plant actually has leaves that will burn in direct light.

Dracaenas also require less water than most indoor plants. Mist their leaves, keep the soil slightly moist but also make sure it has good drainage (Dracaenas hate soggy soil as it can create root rot). A good rule of thumb? Let the top couple of inches of soil dry out before watering.

Dracaenas are sensitive to temperature, preferring it to be about 65-78 degrees during the day and no colder than 55 degrees at night.

This week’s houseplant, Philodendron, comes in many varieties, including Splitleaf, Brasil and Hope Selloum, but one of our favorites here at the nursery is the “Swiss Cheese” philodendron.

The name comes from the holes that form on its heart-shaped leaves as it gets older.

In addition to being beautiful, they are relatively easy to care for.

• All philodendrons like bright, but indirect, light.
• These are tropical plants, so they like their humidity. A swiss cheese philodendron in your bathroom or kitchen will likely be a happy plant.
• It’s a good idea to let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.
• If you give them some support, they will climb like a vine.

Finally, if your leaves are pale, it’s likely that your Philodendron isn’t getting enough calcium and magnesium. A good fertilizer will help you correct any nutritional deficiencies for your plant – just ask one of our experts at Warner’s about which fertilizer would be right for your philodendron.

Ferns are typically underrated, and we think we know who’s to blame: yuppies.

A long time ago, in an attempt to cater to the wave of young urban professionals, lots of bars decided to go upscale. They installed better lighting, started offering fancier expensive drinks and added a lot of plants, mostly ferns, to their decor. The term “fern bar” was coined – and for many who missed the shot-and-a-beer vibe of their local watering hole, it wasn’t meant as a compliment.

But the haters don’t appreciate how versatile, easy to maintain and just plain luscious ferns are. And they seem to come in endless varieties. There’s the Western Sword with its layers of fronds coming up to a point like a sword; the Asparagus Fern, with its airy, delicate appearance and the Crocodile Fern with its scaly textured leaves. Not to mention the Birds Nest Fern, the Lady Fern, the Eagle Fern, and the Ostrich Fern (there’s a lot of ferns named after animals, aren’t there?) 

Caring for Your Fern 

• Light: Ferns grow in the wild on forest floors where there’s a lot of shade, but this doesn’t mean that your houseplant has to be in a dark corner. So give your fern some morning or late afternoon sun, similar to the dappled light it would experience in the wild. No direct sunlight, however; that will make them lose their leaves or turn the fronds yellow.
• Water: Ferns like moisture, so stand their pots on trays of damp pebbles and mist them regularly unless you are using a humidifier in the room, in which case that should be enough humidity for them.
• Fertilizer: During the summer, feed your ferns every two to four weeks (dilute the strength because ferns have delicate root systems, and full strength will scorch them). Stop feeding in winter, while the plant is “resting.” 

This week’s Houseplant of the Week, the Ponytail Palm Tree is definitely beautiful, but it has a secret. It’s neither a palm nor a tree.

In fact, the Ponytail Palm actually is a member of the Agave family, which makes it a succulent.

It’s popular for many reason. First is that expansive beauty that just makes it a great addition to a home or other indoor space.

Another plus for our little imposter is that it’s super easy to care for. It can go some time between waterings, making it a favorite of folks who don’t have a lot of time for plant maintenance or who travel on a regular basis. (We realize that, right now, traveling on a regular basis isn’t a part of our lives, but it will be again some day.)

Caring for Your “Ponytail Palm”

• Light – Technically, the Ponytail Palm needs sun, sun and more sun (or some form of bright light). However, did we mention this is a very forgiving plant? You could give it low light for half a year and then bright sunlight the other half and it would still be happy. That’s really helpful during the winter.
• Water and Humidity – As mentioned above, you can wait two or three weeks between waterings. Make sure to let the soil dry out completely in between waterings. Also, they like their air dry.
• Temperature – Don’t leave your Ponytail Palm out in the cold. They are a bit sensitive to temperature and thrive when it’s anywhere from 60 to 80 degrees. But definitely keep it away from the A/C vents!
• Fertilizer – A general fertilizer works, but only once in spring and once in the summer. Too much food may lead to brown leaves. If you get brown leaves, use sharp scissors to just off the discolored part of the leaf.