Monsoon Season Garden Care

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Monsoon season is officially here, and that added moisture – and coolness – is both a blessing and a challenge for gardeners.  

The question we most commonly get at Warner’s Nursery during monsoon season is how often to water your plants. It can be tricky to judge this because monsoon seasons can be erratic, with lots of rain one week followed by very little the next.

One rule of thumb is that it needs to rain at least an inch a week to provide enough water for your garden. 

If the ground is saturated from recent rains, be judicious about watering, particularly with your annuals. Overwatering can lead to root disease. However, new perennial and tree plantings still need to be watered regularly to ensure they establish roots properly.

This is also a great time to consider adding a rain barrel to your garden if you don’t already have one. Rainwater harvesting has multiple benefits for your garden and your wallet:

  • Using captured rainwater means you don’t have to use tap water, lowering your monthly water bill.
  • It’s the best water for your gardens because it is not treated with any chemicals.
  • It helps reduce soil erosion.
  • It increases general water conservation and helps prevent local flooding.
  • It can make your plants more drought resistant because it forces damaging salts down and away from your plants’ roots. This allows for greater root growth and water uptake, increasing drought tolerance.

Mulching also plays a role in protecting your plants during monsoon season. Typically we talk about adding wood chips, straw, or other materials as a way of retaining moisture for your plants during drier seasons. But mulch also helps reduce erosion from rainstorms and acts as a barrier during heavy rains. 

Finally, there are a couple of additions you’ll find to your garden during monsoon season – mushrooms and mildew. One is relatively benign (at least as far as your garden is concerned), and the other one you need to address as soon as possible. 

For the most part, mushrooms are a sign of healthy soil and don’t pose a threat to your plants. However, you might want to remove them for aesthetic reasons or if you’re worried about young children or pets eating them. The best ways to get rid of mushrooms are by raking them up or using an organic fungicide.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can spread quickly in the damp conditions of the monsoon season. Organic fungicides, particularly those containing sulfur or neem oil, are effective in treating powdery mildew. A product like Fertilome Triple Action Spray can be very useful. It’s crucial to remove and destroy any part of your plant that has mildew. Make sure not to put the infected parts into your compost, as this can spread the disease.

By following these tips, you can navigate the challenges of the monsoon season and keep your garden healthy and thriving. If you have any questions about managing your garden during monsoon season or throughout the year, please visit us at Warner’s Nursery – we’d love to help!

Happy Gardening,
Misti

Rattlesnake Plant

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It’s like having a little bit of the Brazilian rainforest in your home.

The striking Rattlesnake Plant features elongated leaves with wavy edges that can grow up to 30 inches long. The underside of the foliage is a deep purple, but it’s the upper surface of the leaves that inspires its name – light green with a dark green pattern that resembles the skin of a rattlesnake.

Cultivating this plant takes a little careful planning, but can be accomplished if you mimic its tropical habitat.

CARING FOR YOUR RATTLESNAKE

Light: Rattlesnake Plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch their delicate leaves, while too little light can cause the vibrant colors to fade.

Watering: These plants prefer consistently moist soil but should not be waterlogged, which can lead to root rot. Add water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Brown curling leaves indicate too little water, while yellowed leaves means your plant has too much H20.

Humidity: As tropical plants, the Rattlesnake loves high humidity, which is why they do well in kitchens and bathrooms or in rooms with a humidifier. Pebble trays and misting the leaves regularly can also help maintain the required humidity levels.

Soil: A well-draining potting mix is crucial. A mix designed for African violets or a combination of potting soil, peat, and perlite works well.

With proper care, the Rattlesnake Plant will add a visually stunning touch of the tropics to any indoor space.

Houseplant of the Week: The Moth Orchid

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Detail of the flower of a white moth orchid at Warner's Nursery.

Often new plant enthusiasts shy away from orchids, thinking that the plant’s exotic looks mean they are “fussy” and require more gardening expertise than a newbie might have. It’s not true. Here’s what you need to remember about growing orchids: they’re not difficult, just different.

It’s estimated there’s more than 30,000 species of orchids and probably more than 200,000 hybrids. And, yes, some are challenging, even for professional gardeners.

But ones like Phalaenopsis, also known as the moth orchid and available at Warner’s Nursery, really aren’t that hard to cultivate. You just have to be aware of what they need: specialized potting media, careful watering, a way to make sure the roots get air, and bright – but not direct – sunlight.

An air plant in a pot

Most orchids are native to the tropics, where they are essentially air plants, attaching themselves to the bark of trees. Their thick, white roots are able to absorb moisture and nutrients, and because they grow high in the trees, they are used to good air circulation and plenty of light.

Your job is to re-create these conditions in your home and make it possible for this air plant to thrive in a pot. Fortunately it is relatively easy to do that.

Caring for your moth orchid

  • Planting Material: As an epiphyte (fancy word for air plant), moth orchids can’t be grown in soil; their roots would suffocate. Instead pot them with material that’s similar to or comes from a tree, such as bark chips. Having perlite, moss, or coconut husk chips mixed in helps with water retention. You can also buy potting mix that is made special for orchids.
  • Light: Orchids like light, but keep them out of direct sunlight as their leaves will scorch. East- and west-facing windows are good places for them.
  • Watering: There are some orchids that store water, but the moth orchid isn’t one of them, meaning they tend to have a low tolerance for drought. You’ll want to water them about every 7 to 10 days. If the planting material is almost dry and the pot feels light, you should water. Make sure that water doesn’t rest around the stem as that will cause new leaves to rot.
  • Fertilizer: Orchids do love to be fed regularly, but like “light meals.” So take your typical houseplant fertilizer, weaken it by diluting it to about 1/4 strength and feed that to your plant every 7 days. Among orchid growers, this is called the “water weakly, weekly” method.

Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

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Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’ is another bright and beautiful hybrid from the philodendron family. As the plant matures, its lobed variegated leaves turn different colors that can run from different shades of green to yellow, orange, and even a deep red.

It’s given to vining or climbing, meaning you have lots of different ways you can display this plant.

Here are some guidelines when cultivating your plant:

Light: Like most philodendron, Ring of Fire likes bright indirect light to maintain its variegation. Too much direct sunlight and you might scorch the leaves, while too little light might reduce the vibrancy of its colors.

Water: A tropical plant, philodendrons enjoy water in moderation. In the spring and summer, keep the top inch of soil moist to the touch, but starting in September, cut back and allow the soil to dry out a bit between waterings.

Soil: A good, fast-draining soil is best. You don’t want your plant sitting in water. A mix of perlite, peat moss, and orchid bark is a good way to maintain the balance between retaining moisture and providing good drainage.

Temperature/Humidity: Ring of Fire likes warmth and humidity. A humidifier, pebble tray or daily misting can make your plant happier. Protect it from cold drafts by keeping it away from vents or air conditioners.

Dracaena Sanderiana Gold

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Dracaena sanderiana ‘Gold’ is commonly known as Gold Ribbon Dracaena for its striking lance-like leaves that have deep green stripes with prominent gold edges.

This plant prefers bright, indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions. Direct sunlight should be avoided as it can scorch the leaves. When placed in low light, the plant may grow more slowly and the variegation on the leaves may become less pronounced.

This plant is relatively drought-tolerant and prefers to dry out slightly between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so it’s crucial to ensure the soil is well-draining. It prefers moderate humidity levels but can tolerate lower humidity. During winter, avoid placing the plant near cold drafts or heating vents.

Feed Dracaena sanderiana ‘Gold’ with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season (spring and summer). Reduce feeding frequency in the fall and winter when the plant’s growth slows down.

Container Shrubs

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If I say shrub to you, what do you think of? A row of hedges planted along your property line to give you privacy? Or maybe some dwarf evergreen shrubs in a xeriscape garden to soften the hard edges? Perhaps fast-growing plants like honeysuckle or forsythia that are great for quickly filling in a bare landscape?

Whatever example popped in your head probably involved a shrub that was firmly planted in the ground. But what if you are renting a property or live in an apartment or are looking for some patio décor – do you have to go without shrubs?

Happily, there are many shrubs that do well in containers. They will give you all the benefits of these beautiful plants, plus the flexibility to reposition them around as needed – or if you move!

Here are some examples of shrubs that do very well in containers:

  • Dwarf Alberta Spruce (and all dwarf conifers) – this small evergreen conifer has the classic Christmas tree shape.
  • Japanese Maple – with their fiery leaves, these shrubs make a big statement in a small space.
  • Dwarf Peach Trees – rarely getting taller than 8 to 10 feet, these trees will give you spring blossoms, summer green foliage and full-size fruit.
  • Serviceberry – this is an all-year shrub that gives you different looks throughout the year – flowers in spring, fruits in summer, colorful foliage in fall, and stark bark in winter.
  • Dwarf Crabapple “Lollipop” Shrubs – It really does look like a lollipop with its ball of fragrant white flowers on a sturdy trunk. Thanks to its dwarf genetics, this shrub always looks neat and needs minimal pruning.
  • Dwarf varieties of butterfly bushes – you’ll still attract the pollinators with these shrubs but without them taking up too much space in your garden.
  • Hydrangea – about a third of the size of a full hydrangea bush, dwarf hydrangea are another shrub that gives you beautiful blooms while requiring minimal pruning.
  • Barberry – the small round leaf clusters of the barberry look gorgeous in containers and can add color (and privacy) to a deck, patio or balcony.
  • Dwarf Ninebark – a shrub where the flowers are almost secondary to the bark, the name comes from the way the bark peels back, exposing a beautiful red underneath.
  • Low Scape Mound Aronia – this dwarf chokeberry has fast developing leaves and is great for attracting birds.
  • Boxwood – the classic border shrub that often give in-ground gardens their shape is also terrific in containers, and their evergreen foliage provides year-round color.

There are some things you need to consider when planting shrubs in pots. First, your container needs to be thick; plastic containers need not apply for the job of housing a dwarf shrub. Size matters too; your pot should be twice the size of the root ball of the plant to ensure the roots don’t freeze and thaw throughout the winter.

All this means you might have a heavy plant to cart around, so you might want to invest in a tray with wheels to make it easier to move and winterize. Speaking of winter, your container shrub will need water at least once a month during the winter, so make sure it’s accessible.

If you have any questions about selecting shrubs for container planting, please give us a call or visit the nursery. We have both the plants and the appropriate pots for them and can help with whatever advice you need.

Happy Gardening!
Misti

Tomato Troubles

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In the late spring, when we get our tomato plants, we have such hopes. We water them diligently, we wrap them in season extenders or cover them with frost cloth if it gets cold, and set up our cages carefully to support them as they grow.

They flower and we can’t wait for the delicious results.

And then, well, things go south. There are a bunch of common afflictions that strike tomato plants and today I want to tell you about them and what you can do about them.

Blossom Drop – When flowers appear on your tomato plants, but fall off without tomatoes developing, it’s likely you have blossom drop. Temperature fluctuations can cause it, but insect damage, lack of water, too much or too little nitrogen, and lack of pollination can also be the culprit.

What to do about it: While you can’t change the weather, you can make sure the rest of the plant is strong by using organic fertilizer for tomatoes, drawing pollinators by planting milkweed and cosmos, and using neem oil insecticides.

Fruit Cracks – Cracks appear on ripe tomatoes, usually in concentric circles, are fruit cracks. Besides being unsightly, sometimes insects use the cracks as an opportunity to eat the fruit. Hot, rainy weather can cause it. After a long dry spell, tomatoes are thirsty. Plants may take up water rapidly after the first heavy rainfall. This swells the fruit and causes it to crack.

What to do about them: Although you can’t control the rain, you can water tomatoes evenly during the growing season. This prevents them from being so thirsty that they take up too much rainwater during a heavy downpour.

Leaf Roll – This is when mature tomato plants suddenly curl their leaves, with them rolling up from the outside towards the center. As much as 75% of the plant can be affected. High temperatures, wet soil and too much pruning are often the cause.

What to do about it: Although it looks ugly, leaf roll won’t affect tomato development, so you will still get edible tomatoes from your plants. Avoid over-pruning and make sure the soil drains excess water away.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) – TSWV is spread by one of the arch-enemies of any garden, thrips. I absolutely hate thrips. They acquire the virus by feeding on an infected weed, then they spread it to developing tomato plants. Several weeks after transplanting the tomato plants into the garden, random plants may appear stunted, and younger leaves may be marked with bronze or dark spots, or have prominent purple veins. Often the upper foliage will become twisted and cupped as the bronze areas expand. Fruits may have yellow spots. Younger plants may wilt and die, but older plants may survive and bear discolored fruit that may not fully ripen.

What to do about it: Eliminating weeds in the garden is the first step in reducing the chance of acquiring TSWV. Keeping the grass and weeds mowed in areas surrounding the garden may reduce the spread of thrips onto susceptible garden plants. 

There are several other possible tomato problems. If you are worried about how your plants are doing, please take a picture and bring it in to Warner’s Nursery. We can help you identify what’s going on and how to prevent it in the future.

Happy Gardening,
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Peperomia ‘Ginny’

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Peperomias are tropical plants from the pepper family that are popular as indoor plants because they are easy to take care of and come in an almost endless array of colors and varieties.

One of the newest versions is Peperomia clusiifolia known as Peperomia Ginny or sometimes a Tricolor Peperomia because of its varigated, colorful leaves.

Like other Peperomia, this plant thrives in medium to bright, indirect light, but it can also tolerate low light relatively well.

You’ll want to water your plant every one to two weeks, allowing the potting mix or soil to dry out between waterings. If you see your leaves turning yellow and dropping off, it can be a sign that you are overwatering.

Because of a tendency towards root rot, you’ll want to plant your Peperomia in a pot with good drainage and use a light, well-draining soil for your plant. 

Tomatopalooza!

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There’s nothing that quite captures the joy of growing your own food as that moment when you pick those first fresh tomatoes from your garden. They work on almost all the senses – the beautiful transformation from green plant to yellow flower to deep red fruit; the earthy smell of it; the satiny smooth skin against your fingers when you pick it off the plant…

Then there’s that taste. Ever eaten a tomato fresh off the vine that is still slightly sun-warmed? Absolutely amazing. No wonder gardeners are in love with tomatoes!

Every Memorial Day weekend, we break out the party hats to celebrate Tomatopalooza with specials on on our tomato plants and plenty of advice for home gardeners. Here are some practical tips on getting a beautiful harvest this year:

  • Please get them planted soon! We’ve got a limited window to grow these gems and the sooner yours are in the ground, the sooner you can reap (eat) the benefits.
  • You might want to invest in a season extender – even if you aren’t technically extending the season. The nice thing about these tubes of water is that in addition to keeping the plant warm (remember, we still could get frost into June), they protect your plants from transplant shock.
  • Yes, you need cages or stakes. Tomato plants are like children – they need structure and support. New fruit will benefit from improved air circulation and it keeps the plants away from ground pests.
  • Food and Water. A slow release fertilizer is perfect for your young plants. Water thoroughly but not too often and try to water early in the day so that plants will dry off before evening. As always, we recommend drip irrigation systems because they are more efficient and get the water down to the roots and you don’t lose water to evaporation or runoff. If nothing else, don’t water from the top down – this does nothing except get the leaves and tomatoes wet and make them more prone to get diseases or rot.

We hope you have a safe Memorial Day weekend – and that you get some gardening in during the holiday.

Happy Tomatopalooza!
Misti

Houseplant of the Week: Club Moss

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Club Moss Houseplant

Although they have no flowers, the club moss or Selaginella, is a charming, easy-to-care-for houseplant whose beauty comes from its foliage. 

Colors can range from green to gold and some species feature new growth that is white, which makes them look like they are frosted.

They also can be placed in a variety of containers, working well in pots and terrariums.

Caring for Your Club Moss

  • Soil – If planting in a pot, start with good commercial potting soil, which is lighter than top soil and often contains a mild “starter” fertilizer.
  • Water – Club Moss likes moist but well-drained soil. Check the soil moisture with your fingertips. If the top two inches are dry, or the plant is wilted, you need to water it.
  • Fertilizer – Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly.
  • Temperature – The Club Moss is a native of sub-Saharan Africa and loves humidity. If you want to make this plant happy, place it in the kitchen or bathroom. Avoid placing in drafty, hot, or high sun locations.